Naoshima and Japan's Art Islands

Naoshima

Naoshima is the main island of all the art islands. If you only have time to visit one, this is the one, although it is worth it to spend an extra day and at least see Teshima and Inujima.

Honmura Area

The primary residential area of Naoshima with the largest number of options in terms of dining and accommodations. It is also one of two main art site locations on the island. If coming from Takamatsu, you will arrive at this port.

Inside the Visitor’s Center and gift shop

Bennesse House Area

This is the main art site on the island, although spread out in several areas along the coast. It is also the location of all Bennesse House Hotels.

Behind the [Accidental] Photo

[reviews photo]
”hmmm, I didn’t know it was supposed to be foggy this morning.”
[looks up. looks down. looks up. looks down. long pause. looks up and down.]
”WAIT A MINUTE THERE IS NO FOG RIGHT NOW”
Such is the heat and humidity during the Japanese summer that the transition from moderate AC to the outdoors at 6am, all my lenses fogged up.

I’ve never felt so intrusively voyeuristic observing two inanimate objects.

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The view of Takamatsu from Bennesse House.

Miyanoura Area

This area has the main port of Naoshima, which connects to mainland Japan. It also has a couple smaller art sites, although I did not visit any of them.

Teshima

Of note, olives are grown on many of the islands around the Seto Inland Sea, including Teshima. You might even walk past an orchard between sites! By the ferry terminal is a small gift shop featuring many olive food products, including olive tea, olive ramen, and olive soda.

The ferry from Naoshima to Teshima

The view from the Teshima Art Museum

Teshima Art Museum café and gift shop

Teshima Art Museum

Inujima

Heading from the harbor to the art sites. The smoke stack in the background is of a former copper refinery and the current site of the island’s main art site, the Seirensho Art Museum.

Important Info:

Many art sites are only open during the Setouchi Triennial. Dates of operation are not always mentioned in each individual site page, so I would highly recommend checking out the calendar.

Photography is not allowed inside any art site so that the experience can be preserved for new visitors.

Naoshima and Teshima each have a shuttle bus, although the bus schedule in Teshima can be extremely sporadic and infrequent. I would recommend taking or scheduling a taxi instead if you are planning on hitting Teshima and Inujima in the same day. Inujima is small enough that all art sites are easily walkable from the ferry.

Some art sites require reservations, and time slots may sell out. If possible, book tickets in advance.

There are many artworks planted throughout the islands between sites. You might stumble upon a few without prior planning, but if you want to see most of them, there are maps available online.

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Udon

Naoshima and the surrounding areas are part of Kagawa Prefecture. One of the food specialties of this region is udon. There are many “self-serve” restaurants, where you grab a tray, choose a type of udon, and select some toppings and sides. We did not make it to any self-serve locations, but we did manage to eat Udon in Honmura on Naoshima.

Ishii Shouten, Honmura, Naoshima
From my phone

Late lunch udon. My choice: kitsune udon, which has a fried, flat piece of tofu. We also shared eggplant and kabocha tempura, which was what remained for lunch service, and although no longer crisp or hot, was still delicious dipped into the broth.

From my phone

From My Phone:

Traveling between islands and from Takamatsu to Naoshima is through small, high-speed ferries. The ride is a little choppy, and if anywhere near the sides, you will emerge somewhat wet from the spray, a shared experience somewhat amusing in hindsight.

Honmura

Whoops, taken before entering, couldn’t resist sharing the Yokoo House on Teshima. I promise you that even after seeing this photo, you will not know what to expect inside.

Former site of the stonecutter’s house, Inujima

Former site of the stonecutter’s house, Inujima.

Ok, Ok. I couldn’t resist. Taken from the pedestrian street, one of the Art House Project sites, Inujima.

Part of the ruins of the former copper refinery, on the grounds of the Seirensho Museum, Inujima.

Me, walking around the grounds, jumpy and hoping that there were no accidents during the short time period the refinery was in operation.

Date: September 2019